Island Peak traverse the culmination climb
Like most visitors to the Everest region, we will save ourselves a long bus trip and a week-long walk by flying to Lukla in the middle hills of Solu-Khumbu. We will take several days to make our way up the valley, leaving plenty of time for our bodies to acclimatise and to enjoy the fantastic experience of the Nepalese countryside.
We take in all the major valleys in the Everest region (Khumbu, Gokyo, Imja) and visit the major attractions: Everest Base Camp, Gokyo Lakes, Tangboche monastery, Thame village, Khumjung. We head up into the Gokyo Valley to the stunning Gokyo Lakes and Gokyo Ri (5,340m), the first of our high points.
We cross the Cho La pass and head to the village of Lobuje, our first base camp. We spend a few days on rope skills and rock climbing on the lower parts of Lobuje, then make a day trip to Kala Pattar (spectacular high point number two at 5,555m), and Everest Base Camp.
After all this preparation we will be acclimatised and ready for Lobuje East. From a high camp, which is usually on rock, the ascent of Lobuje East (6,119m) requires cramponing on moderately angled snow with quite serious exposure.
After a big feed and a good sleep we will head up over another pass, Kongma La, to enter the valley of the Imja Khola.
Our high camp by the lakes gives terrific access to a remanent glacier that is perfect terrain for learning crevasse rescue and ice climbing. We’ll have a chance to practice our cramponing technique as well as steep ice and rope skills.
The scramble to the summit of Pokhalde (5,806m) is relatively straightforward rock climbing and provides fantastic views of the valleys of the Khumbu region. From there we trek east, to Chhukung and on to Island Peak (Imja Tse - 6,189m). This may be climbed by a number of different routes. We prefer to carry out a ‘Grand Traverse’, ascending the Cook’s ridge, traversing the summit ridge and descending the 'standard' route.
The summit icecap is cut with crevasses and there is some steep ground, so we will make use of our recently polished glacial travel, cramponing and rope skills. This is a truly spectacular peak, surrounded by enormous mountains, and the technical nature of our course means that we can explore it in a way inaccessible to others.
Day 1 Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 2 Packing, theory and cultural tour around Kathmandu
Day 3-11 Fly to Lukla, trek in Khumbu and Gokyo valleys
Day 12-27 Trekking, climbing and instruction
Day 28-30 Trek out to Lukla
Day 31 Fly to Kathmandu
Day 32 Depart Kathmandu
Trek in and around all the major valleys of the Everest region of Nepal
Learn about climbing from experienced mountain guides
Rock-climb to the summit of Pokhalde (5750m) with panoramic views of the Khumbu region
Develop high altitude experience and build the foundation for your future climbing exploits
Snow-climb Lobuje East (6100m) adjacent to Everest
Climb the Chessell Adventures-pioneered Grand Traverse of Island Peak (6189m elevation)
Develop and practise climbing skills at scenic spots in the Khumbu: ropes, anchors, crevasses, crampons, ice axes
What a view! At 6189m, Island Peak (Imja Tse) is a must-do for the hardy trekker or aspiring climber. The peak rises 1100m from the valley floor and its views of Mount Makalu (8481m) and the looming south face of Mount Lhotse (8501m) will stay in your mind forever.
Our advanced technical skills mean that we can safely climb this beautiful peak by the Chessell Adventures-pioneered Grand Traverse route. Just one of the objectives of DCXP's Himalayan Technical Climbing Course!
Our other principal objectives for this expedition are ascents of Island Peak’s dramatic counterparts Pokhalde (5750m) and Lobuje East (6100m) as well as Gokyo Ri and Kala Pattar.
Our goal is to trek in and around all the major valleys of the Everest region of Nepal and:
• Learn about climbing from experienced mountain guides
• Develop high altitude experience and build the foundation for your future climbing exploits
• Trek to the summits of 5550m Kala Pattar and Gokyo Ri
• Rock-climb to the summit of Pokhalde (5750m) with panoramic views of the Khumbu region
• Snow-climb Lobuje East (6100m) adjacent to Everest
• Climb the DCXP-pioneered Grand Traverse of Island Peak (6189m elevation)
• Develop and practise climbing skills at scenic spots in the Khumbu: ropes, anchors, crevasses, crampons, ice axes.
Lobuje East with Mt Everest behind something to work towards!
Is it right for me?
DCXP's Himalayan Technical Climbing Course is an appropriate goal for:
Trekkers looking for an extra challenge,
Aspiring mountaineers wanting solid building blocks for further expeditions
Aspiring 8000m peak climbers
This expedition introduces you to Himalayan climbing, and develops your skills to safely climb in the Himalayas and elsewhere. A strong spirit of adventure, a willingness to stretch your boundaries and have a go are essential requirements. Most participants have been bush walking or trekking and overnight camping before embarking on this trip.
Many have some previous basic rock climbing experience, which provides a good base for the mountaineering skills seminars that take place throughout the expedition. Some participants may be looking for a transference of skills from rock to snow, or alpine climbing to Himalayan climbing.
You will need to be able to walk for 6-8 hours a day with a moderate daypack. The trekking days are not especially long, as your body needs time to acclimatise. You are on holiday, so there is time to stop for a long lunch and read a book or take some photographs. During the trekking phases we have porters and yaks or dzopkyo to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and climbing gear.
Summit days and approach days will require an extra special effort. For example, we will need to carry heavier packs from Lobuje Base Camp (where the yaks can get to) to Lobuje High Camp. You should be prepared to carry a 15 kg backpack.
A couple of big days of up to 10-18 hours will be needed as we set off early in the morning for the summit. On top of your good preparation, your weeks of trekking should mean that you are quite strong by this stage.
raining in use of emergency medical equipment (provided)
Dates, Prices & Includes
All airport transfers in Nepal
Sightseeing tour in Kathmandu
All accommodation in Nepal
Breakfast in Kathmandu
Flights between Kathmandu and Lukla (with up to 25kg baggage in total)
Trekking permits, peak fees and National Park entry fees
Guide, sherpas, cooks, porters, and or yaks, and local staff insurance
All meals on trek and climb
Tea house accommodation or individual tents on trek
Shared mountain tents, sleeping mats at high camps
Group climbing gear such as ropes, snow stakes, and rock and ice protection equipment, down jacket and sleeping bag rental
Group kitchen and dining equipment and tents
The crew will carry a comprehensive medical kit including medical oxygen, portable altitude chamber (Gammov bag) and specialised drugs, as well as a satellite phone for emergency communications. Safety of the entire group (including your kitchen and climbing staff and porters) is our first priority.
What's not included
International & home country domestic airfares, & excess baggage
Nepal visa (USD $30, valid for 60 days, available on entry)
Excess baggage (allowance: 15kg on Kathmandu- Lukla flight + USD $1/kg excess)
Tips for crew (allow $100-$150 USD)
Personal travel insurance (REQUIRED)
Personal expenses such as gifts, phone calls, laundry and drinks (including alcohol)
Meals and accommodation other than those specified, including outside the trip dates
Personal clothing and equipment for the expedition
Medical evacuation costs, extra accommodation or any other fees associated with early departure, change of itinerary, or breaking from the group due to illness or otherwise. The cost may need to be paid by you at the time and may be able to be claimed back from your travel insurance company
DCXP provides a high level of service on Mera Peak with a generous time frame (22 days ex Kathmandu) that allows everyone to enjoy the trip and an opportunity to reach the summit. By using a steady acclimatisation program (and avoiding the ill-advised high route into the Hinku) and allowing time for bad weather along the way, we give participants the maximum chance for success. We provide sufficient support and instruction to make this 6,000m peak accessible, even to those who have not climbed before.
DCXP's expeditions are always led by talented and experienced leaders. Due to the remote nature of the trek and the significant altitude of the peak itself, DCXP uses only experienced leaders on Mera Peak adventures. They work with our local Sherpas and crew who know the region very well, have friends along the trail and have climbed the peak before.
Your accomplished and friendly trek guide will help you to enjoy and appreciate the cultural, and natural attractions of the region. We use a steady acclimatisation program and allow time for bad weather along the way, giving participants the maximum chance of success.
Your safety is our priority, our leaders are experienced in wilderness first aid and carry a comprehensive first aid kit. Our own experienced climber and physician Doctor David Tingay advises us, and our clients, on medical issues, and is available by satellite phone in the event of a medical problem or injury arising on expedition.
DCXP staff are expert climbers, these 4 sherpas have 14 Everest summit between them, what they can't teach you is not worth knowing!
DCXP was started by Duncan Chessell and has been operating trips around the world for many years. The experience gained in expedition logistics and health, has been utilised in developing teams of talented staff that are the basis of DCXP's consistently high quality expeditions. DCXP is now owned and managed by Katie Sarah, who has been involved with this business since 2006, and has now gained her own experience both in the field - from the remote wilderness of Antarctica to the summit of Everest - and in operating expeditions.
Our adventures are to mountainous destinations worldwide including to the seven summits (Mt Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Mt El’brus in Russia and the extreme summit of Mt Everest to name a few). We arrange custom expeditions worldwide for groups who are looking for an experience that is both an adventure in remote and exciting destinations, but also has the infrastructure and support to help you achieve your goals.
Mountain Designs Equipment - VIP privileges
Members of DCXP Expeditions receive a Mountain Designs VIP discount card valid from the time your deposit is received to the start of the expedition. This entitles you to a 20% discount on Mountain Designs' exclusive lines and 15% on all other gear in store. Mountain Designs reserves the right to change the discount levels without notice.
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Mt Saribung & Mustang region expedition
Mera Peak Trek & Climb
Mt Saribung & Mustang region expedition
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