battling out of a tight camp 2
The Journey
Kathmandu
When you arrive in Kathmandu we will meet you at the airport and transfer you to a good hotel. You will have at least one day to look around Kathmandu while we organise the final permits and other formalities that can only be done with passports in hand. We also spend a couple of days practicing some ropes and rock climbing skills in the Kathmandu Valley at the local cliff.
The ancient city of Kathmandu is home to many Buddhist and Hindu temples and there are plenty of chaotic streets, markets and restaurants to wander in. We can organise a tour of Kathmandu for you or you may wish to do it on your own. There are also many internet cafés and second hand climbing gear shops for any last minute items.
You will find Kathmandu is a very busy, fascinating, dirty, beautiful, ugly, dusty, and different third world city! If you have never been to a third world country before, be prepared for an 'experience'. Kathmandu is very safe though, the people are very friendly and many speak excellent English. Whilst theft can be an issue if you leave things lying around (as is this case anywhere), violent crime against tourists is almost unheard of. Your personal safety is better in Nepal than most western world cities.
The trek in to base camp
The team will assemble in Pangboche we have a further two nights (more if needed) to allow everyone to acclimatise. On our spare day here we often walk up the valley further to Dingboche or up a steep track to a small kharka ('flat place') where the yaks are grazed in the summer months. Spectacular views and a good aerobic work-out are the rewards. We also visit the local Lama who will bless the expedition members to give us good luck on the mountain.
Once everyone is ready, we make the short walk up to base camp (about two hours) and begin our preparations for our ascent of the mountain. In base camp we hold another Buddhist ceremony called a Puja. This ceremony is important for our climbing Sherpas. It involves blessing the base camp along with our ice axes and crampons, which allows us to begin our task of climbing the mountain without angering the local gods. Many climbing Sherpas will take a good luck charm with them tied around their neck to keep them safe. This would have been presented to them by one of the head Lamas in the valley.
The Climb
Base camp (4600 m): Situated on a large grassy meadow with a wonderful views.
To yak camp (5400 m): We use yaks to carry most of our equipment for this section, which saves us three to fours hours of heavy work. We (and the yaks) use a rough track over very rocky terrain.
To camp one (5800 m): Our first real camp is only one and half hours walk above yak camp. This section is marked by rock cairns and involves boulder hopping and some easy scrambling. We sometimes fix a couple of sections with rope to be used as a handrail, depending on ice. After an acclimatisation push to camp one we'll descend for a rest to base camp.
Camp one to camp two (6000 m): Now we are really climbing. This section of the route is usually rock climbing only, depending on the season. The granite is high quality and the moves fun, challenging and exposed but 'do-able'. We follow a narrow ridge, switching back and forth on each side of the ridge. This is the hardest rock climbing of the entire route. In places the exposure is extreme and you are very thankful of the fixed ropes. Whilst it is generally easier not to pull on the ropes all the time, if you are finding the going getting a bit too hard you can rest on the fixed rope. You can also use your jumar to help you over the odd spot of difficulties. Most of the climbing on this section is traversing on rock, so good rock climbing skills will help you move efficiently and quickly over this terrain.
Camp two: Situated on top of the Yellow Tower on a narrow platform this camp site is rather exposed and has fantastic views. If you dropped your cup from here it would probably land in base camp!
Camp two to camp three (6300 m): Now for the hardest snow and ice pitches of the route... We follow a system of steep snow and ice gullies up to join a feature called the Mushroom Ridge. Whilst the ridge itself is not as technical as the gullies leading up to it, the exposure here is palpable. It is a narrow, windy, snowy mushroom-like ridge with giant Himalayan peaks in the background. This feature leads us up onto a small plateau at 6300 m, which serves the purpose of camp three.
Camp three: (old Camp 2.7) .... Due to the ice cliff activity we will need to switch our camp 3 to lower on the ridge and this will be a tight small campsite that will require us to break our team into small units and "leapfrog" our way up and down the peak. This camp will require a longer summit push than previous years, but for those who are fit, experienced and skilled this will not present a problem. An exposed position is the start of our summit push. The sherpas will often use a full climbing rope to tie our tents down as the natural shape of the mountain can at times unfortunately funnel the wind to this location. However it is the only safe flat piece of real estate within range of the summit. It gets the sun early and is an amazing view point to spend the night
Summit day: The initial route is to the right of the huge 'dablam' (ice cliff), up a moderately steep slope, which is often iced. Once past this feature we move toward the centre of the face. The angle eases and a couple of tough hours later we emerge on the summit (6856 m). The summit is the size of a tennis court and allows us to move around and take pictures. Five of the world’s six highest peaks are clearly visible, with many other 7000 m and lesser peaks filling the gaps.
Finish in Kathmandu
People often choose to spend a couple of nights back in Kathmandu, which really adds to the Himalayan experience. There is time to see the sights and buy gifts before heading home with amazing tales of the fabulous Himalayas.
Infrastructure option:
Ascents of Ama Dablam are also available to capable mountaineers as infrastructure-only trips upon request. We can lend you our base camp and logistical support while you do your own thing on the mountain, usually while we run our trip alongside you.
Bad weather, contingencies
In the case of extended bad weather we can extend the trip by up to one week. Although this doesn't happen very often, it is a possibility. We have chosen the time of year for its normally very stable weather pattern. In the case of an extension, our agents in Kathmandu can make the necessary changes to air tickets etc. Our other option is a helicopter charter from base camp. This would then shorten the time taken to get from BC to Kathmandu for your connecting flight, should time become short. This extra helicopter cost is not in our budget, however! Contingency plans do exist and will be discussed at the time.
Brief Itinerary
Day 1
Arrive in Kathmandu
Day 2
Preparation in Kathmandu
Days 3-12
Fly to Lukla, trek in Khumbu Valley
Days 13-26
Climbing
Days 27-29
Trek to Lukla
Day 30
Fly to Kathmandu
Day 31
Depart Kathmandu
from the Cho La
Highlights
Ama Dablam is known as the Matterhorn of the Himalayas and is perhaps the most spectacular mountain in Nepal.
The climbing on the SW Ridge route encompasses a trek through the Khumbu Valley, and up increasingly rocky ground onto exquisite granite, exposed ice climbing and on to steep snow.
We used fixed lines to maximise safety and speed and our high ratio of leaders and sherpas to clients means you have the best opportunity for success.
Chessell Adventures provides a extremely professional high quality commercial operation.
The Attractions
An expedition to Ama Dablam (6856m) is more than just a climb. It’s a journey into the heart of the Himalayas. Located in the Khumbu valley of Nepal, only 12 km from the summit of Mount Everest, Ama Dablam demands the attention of every passer-by. Soaring ridge lines and super-steep faces guard the summit from all but the experienced climber. From the summit you are surrounded by a vista of peaks like no other, five of the highest six peaks in the world are clearly visible.
The first ascent (via the SW ridge) of Ama Dablam was not made until the mid 1950’s by a strong NZ/USA team. The north ridge fell to a talented French team as late as 1979. In recent years many parties have successfully climbed the mountain, with nearly all ascents via the original SW ridge route. Our director Duncan Chessell has personally led 5 expeditions to the peak, giving us a very detailed knowledge of the route and logistics required to be successful.
Our ascent will be made via the conventional SW ridge route, a technical route that requires 3500 m of fixed ropes and three camps above base camp.
The climb usually completed in less than four weeks; however we do build in an extra few days in case of exceptionally bad weather.
The climbing on the route involves pure rock climbing on exquisite granite followed by mixed snow and rock climbing. The last section to the summit involves ice climbing followed by a long steep snow slope. Due to the technical nature of the route, ropes will be fixed for most of the climb above camp one.
Objective danger on the SW Ridge route was minimal until 2006 when the ice cliffs above camp 3 became active - they remain so now. However the snow slopes are generally stable (with minimal avalanche risk), the rock is of good quality and the mountain is below the reach of jet stream winds.
are you ready?
Is it right for me?
Chessell Adventures' Ama Dablam expedition is accessible to experienced fit climbers. If your climbing experience is limited or your skills (or even fitness) are in need of a tune-up, we prefer you to join us on our Himalayan Five Peaks expedition. This would pre-acclimatise you and ensure a thorough brush-up on skills for your ascent.
Experience and technical skill required
Ama Dablam is a serious climb requiring extensive use of ropes and equipment. We require that climbers have experience of successful climbs of two 6000m peaks previously or greater, and the rock climbing ability to second to (Australian) grade 18 or above or lead climbing to grade 15.
A good background in rock climbing is important as the route has large sections of traversing on steep rocky ground using fixed ropes. Team members should be familiar with the use of jumars (mechanical ascenders), be able to use prusiks to ascend and descend a rope and change easily between ascent and abseil. People who are comfortable on rock to 5.9+/19/HVS-E1 will do well, those who lead climb on rock will have an advantage, those who have been on multi-day climbs such as Denali will also be well prepared. It is a serious mountain – technical difficulties at a high altitude for days at a time. Prepare well.
We'll provide clients with pre-trip preparation notes for use near your home with friends or local rock climbing guides. Due to our high level of western guide support and sherpa support we are able maximise your chance of success.
Fitness required
You will need to be able to walk for 6-8 hours a day with a pack. Early on the days are not hugely long as your body needs time to acclimatise. You are on holiday after all, so there is time to stop for a long lunch and read a book or take some photographs. We have yaks and porters to carry our heavy camping equipment, food and climbing gear.
Summit days will require an extra special effort but by then you should be quite strong from all the trekking during the previous weeks. A big day 10+ hours will be needed as we set off early (pre-dawn) in the morning for the summit.
approaching camp two
Dates, Prices & Includes
What's included
Western expedition leader
Individual tents at base camp with full camping service, shared rooms in lodges on trek
Climbing sherpas for all group
All airport transfers in Nepal
Hotel with breakfast in Kathmandu
Shared mountain tents, sleeping mats at high camps
All meals & cooking equipment on trek and climb
Flights between Kathmandu and Lukla (with up to 25kg baggage in total)
Trekking permits, peak fees and National Park entry fees
Sherpas, cooks, porters, and local staff insurance
Group climbing equipment, fixed ropes & medical kit
All tents, kitchen equipment, food and plenty of hot drinks
Sleeping bag and down jacket rental
In Kathmandu we stay at the Shanker Hotel (4 star). This charming historic palace has a peaceful garden with a pool and is just on the edge of the main tourist area, Thamel.
Not included:
International & home country domestic airfares, transfers en route & excess baggage
Nepal Visa (USD $30 available on entry)
International departure taxes if applicable (mostly included with flight ticket now)
Excess baggage (allowance: 25kg on Kathmandu-Lukla flight + USD $1/kg excess)
Tips for crew
Summit bonuses to share or personal Sherpa ($500/Sherpa)
Personal travel insurance (REQUIRED)
Personal expenses such as gifts, phone calls, laundry and drinks (including alcohol)
Lunch and dinner in Kathmandu (it would be a pity to constrain your choices!)
Meals and accommodation other than those specified
Personal clothing and equipment for the trek.
Medical evacuation costs, extra accommodation or any other fees associated with early departure, change of itinerary, or breaking from the group due to illness or otherwise. The cost may need to be paid by you at the time and may be able to be claimed back from your travel insurance company
Travel Insurance
We recommend cancellation insurance to protect your investment.
We require participants to have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, evacuation and repatriation.
Please ensure that your chosen policy provides cover for the activities (trekking and climbing with guides and ropes) and the localities in which you will travel (Nepal, to elevations up to 6,856 metres above sea level).
We can organise insurance for you. Your trip dossier has further details and a full brochure is available on request.
Our Style
The Southwest Ridge route is extremely exposed and mistakes with rope work can be unforgiving. For this reason we have a low client:guide ratio and use experienced western guides to keep you safely on track. We also have a strong local climbing sherpa team to help us on the mountain. They greatly assist in your success by helping with load carrying and the fixing of ropes. You are then left to carry only your personal gear between camps.
Your guide(s) will be involved in the fixing of rope and the smooth running of the expedition but their primary concerns are client safety, service and success. Your guide will be climbing with you at all times, often assisted by a climbing sherpa. Your guide and sherpas are there for your safety and will make decisions regarding safety and weather.
A typical team would consist of 8 to 12 clients, up to two guides, up to six climbing sherpas, a camp one cook, base camp cook, one kitchen boy and a message runner. We run our trips on very low ratios. We use a lot of sherpa power and we have exceptional food in base camp and on the mountain. Our tents are all high quality expedition style tents and roomy enough to enable you to enjoy a comfortable night’s sleep. If you want the best chance of success – this is it! Chessell Adventures provides a extremely professional high quality commercial operation.
Any trip to altitude can be potentially dangerous so every medical and technical precaution is taken to ensure your safety and success. Comprehensive medical equipment, such as oxygen, Gammov bag and specialised drugs will be on hand. Our own experienced climber and physician Doctor David Tingay advises us, and our clients, on medical issues, and is available by satellite phone in the event of a medical problem or injury arising on expedition. Ropes and other technical safety equipment are also provided: we do not skimp on kit. Safety of the entire group (including kitchen and climbing staff and porters) comes first.
About Chessell Adventures
summit success
Chessell Adventures is a world-class specialist adventure company catering to individuals and groups. We are acknowledged in the industry as a provider of high quality, good value expeditions with an edge.
We operate personalised adventurous expeditions to international wilderness destinations including the "Seven Summits". Our particular strengths are in the Himalayas of Nepal and Tibet, and on the tracks of Papua New Guinea and we arrange custom expeditions worldwide.
Chessell Adventures' team of specialist leaders is backed by superior logistics and support, and partnerships with like-minded organisations. We pride ourselves on high levels of safety and support for our participants that give genuinely small groups of participants pathways to success, fun and camaraderie in a dynamic outdoor environment. We are delighted to say that many of our clients to date are advocates for Chessell Adventures.
In charge of Chessell Adventures' Expeditions is Duncan Chessell. He is a qualified climbing instructor and veteran of more than 100 expeditions and adventures worldwide. Duncan has extensive experience of leadership, expedition logistics and health, and over the years has developed teams of talented staff that are the basis of Chessell Adventures' consistently high quality expeditions.
Mountain Designs Equipment - VIP privileges
Members of Chessell Adventures Expeditions receive a Mountain Designs VIP discount card valid from the time your deposit is received to the start of the expedition. This entitles you to a 20% discount on Mountain Designs' exclusive lines and 15% on all other gear in store. Mountain Designs reserves the right to change the discount levels without notice.
Mountain Designs manufactures high quality outdoor gear suitable for your expedition. You can visit one of
Mountain Designs
’ 38 outlets in Australia and New Zealand.
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